If it is only peculiar to me, then maybe I will buy another replacement battery eventually. I was just wondering if anyone else was experiencing this problem. But this weaker battery that originally came with the bike really limits me now from doing that. I have an extra battery, as I like to go on 40 to 50 mile trips. These things are just too expensive for this kind of thing to keep happening. It seems to me that I should be getting much more life out of this battery than I have. And at several hundred dollars a pop it isn’t something that I am too keen on dishing out every year. It has just surpassed its one year warranty. I would not think that this battery would be in need of replacing after only one year of service. I have charged this battery over the past year only once a week, or a little over 52 times. I use to get about 18 miles using assist levels 1-3, more if just using level 1. Has anyone experienced seeing only 4 bars after charging their battery. It adds new life to the electric motor, lets you use level 3 0r 4 of the assist as you chose and greatly enhances the riding range of the bike.I have a 2014 E3 Dash that I purchased in August of 2014. The new battery is a substantial improvement over the original. I have a cycle analyst installed which I use to monitor the battery. New battery has an led light meter on the top and a usb port. Ignored the other two wires which only control the battery charge indicator on the display and the miles to empty. New battery only has black and red wires which I matched with black and red on bike. Mounts in the same position as the existing Izip battery, has a smaller profile with no greater weight than the original battery. The only modification required was to drill an additional hole in the battery mounting bracket to secure the battery to the bike frame (purchased longer screws). Total cost without tax including shipping was $525. I also purchased the advanced charger (additional $80). I did not chose the high power option only the long range (+ $40). I purchased the 13.5ah Carbon Shark Pack from Luna Cycle. I have attached a picture but can't find the brand. I make reference to this link that discusses the use and installation, I sent the author an e-mail months ago, zero reply.Ĭlick to expand.It was posted Nov 28, 2016. I take the battery off of my iZip E3 Peak, I take a voltmeter/tester to verify the voltage from the proper pins are correct (one set reads 48v, another reads 36v), and I test the horn by placing one wire on each terminal that shows voltage (the 48v set), and I get zero response from the horn. I bought 2 of them, as I was of the belief the 1st one was no good. I've read that some have used a 48v electric horn on their 48v e-bikes. Last year I posted on this with no replies: There is a thread about using a 48v horn on an e-bike.I can't get any activation of the horn when connecting to the 48v pins. I noticed this while trying to get a readout, and saw the different voltages, which is another thing that has been bugging me. "proprietary battery with different voltage output at different pins" Now, I have 2 ebikes that share the same battery but 3 batteries all in all.
Later, I also purchased a highly discounted Raleigh Tekoa with the same battery. Last year There was none available but I was able to negotiate with a store in California to buy the battery from an Izip displayed on the show room. It is priced more expensively at other sites. For me, to keep my ebike working like new, I had to use OEM battery, and am glad that's what I did. I read somewhere that a guy used a generic battery but the PAS control does not work and the display does not work. It is also a proprietary battery with different voltage output at different pins. Click to expand.I searched all over the internet and it is very hard to get IZIP OEM replacement battery, not until most recently.
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